Photorealistic results in Rooze: model choice, prompts, and batch workflows
A practical guide to getting photorealistic results fast: choosing the right model, writing prompts like art direction, and iterating with batch mode.

If you want photorealistic text-to-image results, the two things that matter most are:
- Model choice
- Prompt clarity (not length — clarity)
This guide is a practical “get good results fast” walkthrough — plus how to use Rooze’s batch mode to iterate quickly.
Step 1: Pick the right model for the job
Rooze currently ships three SD1.5 community checkpoints. They’re all capable, but they behave differently — picking the right one saves a lot of prompt wrangling.
DreamShaper 8 (best all‑rounder)
- Best for: “cinematic realism”, travel/cities/landscapes, interiors, products, general photoreal work
- Strengths: balanced look, good composition, wide prompt coverage
- Tradeoffs: not always the most “pure portrait” look out of the box
Epic Realism (maximum realism)
- Best for: true-to-camera realism, outdoor scenes, natural lighting, product shots
- Strengths: strong photoreal texture/lighting, fewer “stylized” artifacts
- Tradeoffs: can be less forgiving with vague prompts — rewards specificity
ChilloutMix (portraits / fashion)
- Best for: portraits, beauty/fashion/editorial vibes, clean skin tones
- Strengths: flattering faces, consistent portrait aesthetics, strong “people” outputs
- Tradeoffs: can over-beautify; for “documentary realism” you may need more grounded details
If you’re not sure where to start, pick DreamShaper 8, get your prompt working, then switch to Epic Realism or ChilloutMix depending on whether you want “more camera-real” or “better portraits”.




A quick “vibe board” from the Rooze showcase. In practice, you’ll pick models based on the kind of realism you want (portraits, products, cinematic scenes, etc.).
Step 2: Use prompts that behave like art direction, not poetry
Photorealism usually improves when you specify:
- Subject
- Scene/context
- Lighting
- Lens/camera vibe
- Composition
- A few grounded details
A photorealistic prompt template
Copy/paste this and replace the bracketed parts:
A photorealistic [subject] in [location], [time of day], [lighting description], shot on a [lens] with shallow depth of field,
natural skin texture, high detail, realistic colors, cinematic composition
Examples (copy/paste)
Portrait
Photorealistic portrait of a 35-year-old woman with short dark hair, soft window light, 50mm lens, shallow depth of field, natural skin texture,
realistic colors, subtle film grain, neutral background
Product
Photorealistic studio product photo of a matte black coffee grinder on a white seamless backdrop, softbox lighting, crisp edges, realistic reflections,
85mm lens look, high detail
Cinematic street
Photorealistic night street scene in Tokyo, rain-slick pavement, neon reflections, cinematic lighting, 35mm lens look, high detail, realistic colors,
moody atmosphere
Step 3: Iterate with batch mode (this is the secret weapon)
Batch mode is ideal for photorealism because you usually need multiple variations before you get the perfect face, pose, lighting, and background.
In Rooze, Batch mode is simple: put one prompt per line, hit Generate, and Rooze runs them in order. In both Single and Batch mode you can also choose how many variations to generate per prompt.
Batch workflow that works
- Start with a strong base prompt
- Generate ~5 variations
- Pick 1–2 favorites and note what’s working vs what’s off
- Make one small change to the prompt (not five changes)
- Generate ~5 more variations
- Once it’s dialed, do a “final” run: ~10 variations, optionally with more steps for quality
What to change first (in order)
- Lighting (“soft window light” → “overcast daylight” → “golden hour backlight”)
- Camera/lens (“35mm” vs “85mm” vibe)
- Environment specificity (add one concrete detail)
- Mood words (moody, bright, clinical, dreamy — don’t overdo it)
Step 4: A mini "prompt pack" for photorealism (10 starters)
These are intentionally short. Start here, generate a batch, then add one or two grounded details based on what you want to improve.
- Cinematic close-up: Photorealistic close-up portrait, 85mm lens look, soft rim light, natural skin texture, subtle film grain, high detail, realistic colors
- Golden hour outdoor: Photorealistic portrait outdoors at golden hour, warm backlight, shallow depth of field, realistic colors, natural skin texture
- Studio headshot: Photorealistic studio headshot, softbox lighting, clean background, crisp detail, realistic skin, 50mm lens look
- Architectural interior: Photorealistic modern living room interior, natural daylight, wide-angle lens look, realistic materials, high detail
- Food: Photorealistic food photography of [dish], soft natural light, shallow depth of field, realistic texture, high detail
- Car photo: Photorealistic automotive photo of a [car], dusk lighting, reflections, 35mm lens look, cinematic composition
- Nature macro: Photorealistic macro photo of [object], shallow depth of field, high detail, realistic colors
- Fashion: Photorealistic fashion editorial photo, studio lighting, high detail fabric texture, realistic skin, cinematic composition
- Product on desk: Photorealistic photo of [product] on a wooden desk, window light, realistic shadows, high detail, 50mm lens look
- Documentary: Photorealistic documentary-style photo of [subject], natural light, candid composition, realistic colors, subtle film grain
Step 5: Managing models (so you don’t fill your storage)
If you’re trying multiple large checkpoints:
- Keep 1–2 favorites installed
- Delete the rest after you’ve decided
- Use the Model Manager as part of your workflow, not as an afterthought
This is especially important when models are multi-GB.
Try Rooze: https://www.rooze.ai